A thick, intensely spiced mash of potato, tomato, onion, and peas, cooked on a flat griddle with butter and pav bhaji masala until everything is deep red and slightly caramelised. Served with a white bread roll toasted in a quantity of butter that bypasses judgment, raw onion, and a wedge of lemon.

Dubai's Maharashtrian and Gujarati communities are large and food-proud and have kept this exactly as it should be. Find the right cafeteria in Bur Dubai and it'll be AED 12. It'll be correct.