The Hajar Mountains rise behind it; the world's longest zipline (Jebel Jais Flight, 2.8km) runs across the top. Archaeological sites going back 7,000 years. A growing beach club and resort scene. The first casino in the UAE — approved — which changes what RAK means commercially.

It's doing what Dubai was doing 20 to 25 years ago: investing in tourism infrastructure, building international profile, keeping prices lower than its southern neighbour. The people who found it early are annoyingly smug about it, but they're not wrong.