Long-grain basmati rice cooked until each grain is separate, finished with butter and a raw egg yolk, saffron colouring the top. Alongside it: koobideh (minced lamb on a flat skewer, charcoal-grilled) or barg (marinated lamb fillet). Finished with sumac and a grilled tomato.

Dubai has one of the largest Iranian communities in the world. The Iranian restaurants in Deira and along the Creek serve chelo kebab that hasn't been adjusted for any other audience, because it doesn't need to be. The rice alone is worth the trip.